Cuba
Cuba is a place I new very little about before we actually got there. I
knew it was communist but not really what that actually meant. I knew
the name Castro but not really who he was. We had bought the guide book
but I am ashamed to say that even when we stepped onto the plane at
Heathrow at the end of January I was yet to read the thoroughly
interesting and enlightening section at the back about the fascinating
history of Cuba. It therefore was more than a slight culture shock when
about 15 hours later we stepped off the plane in Havana only to join the
huge queue at the airport to exchange some Stirling into Pesos.
Cuba is the most unusual place I have been. Very different from any of the other poorer nations I have visited. It was clearly once a great success, at the height of the sugar trade there was a huge amount of wealth around and they used it to build a capital city that would have been stunning in its hay day. I can only describe the buildings as similar to the most decorative in central London. Tall, white stone and very ornate. However that is where the similarity ends. Since the revolution in the early 50's there has been no money to speak of and therefore all of the once beautiful buildings have fallen into a state of disrepair I have never seen on such a scale. It meant there was a strange clash between the otherwise modern people in their western clothing and the surroundings of a previous time starting to decay.
Perhaps one of the most surprising things were the cars. I knew of course that Cuba was famous for its old American cars but I thought they would be few and far between. As it turns out, I suspect about a third of the cars are around 60 years old and they have a huge amount of character. A third are boxy old Russian examples and the final third are modern imports used largely by tourists. As we later learned the cars are passed down the generations of each family. Most of them are fixed daily under the bonnet but the body work is largely origional. Therefore they are often missing door handles and the doors no longer close well enough to be water tight. They were all around before the time of seat belts and their owners have often made modifications, for example cutting a hole in the dash to add a tape player. Great fun though.
Nick, Peter, Me, James and Amy at Club Tropicana.
Click to see more pictures
Click to see more pictures
We spent a lot of our time in Havana just wandering around soaking up the atmosphere and of course taking lots of pictures. We visited the Revolution museum, the Gallery of modern art, went on a guided tour of the old city in a horse and cart, ate a lot of very mediocre food, drank plenty of rum, toured New Havana in a horse and cart and most spectacularly spent an evening at the infamous Club Tropicana. The latter being one of my highlights of the whole holiday. We we greeted at the club with a flower for the girls and a cigar for the boys. We were then led to a table sitting right next to the stage. We ordered the most delicious pina colada cocktails I have ever had (and I am not exaggerating there) and then sat back to watch the most elaborate show I have ever seen. The costumes were nothing if not bonkers. The girls must have very strong necks because although they generally only wore a glitzy bikini with fish net tights they had extreme and huge head dresses. For one of the dances they actually had diamante lamp shades on their heads.
From Havana we caught a bus to Varadero for 3 nights in an all inclusive hotel right on a white sandy beach. This was meant to be our relaxing section of the holiday. A few days of reading and a bit of sunbathing. Pretty much that was all we did. Varadero unfortunately is not the best part of Cuba, though I am sure it is the only bit most British tourists see unless they venture out on a day trip to Havana. Whilst we were there we did go out on a large catamaran for a day to a local island and another beach very similar to the one at Varadero. We also went snorkeling which was distinctly average but unless you try these things you never know what you are missing out on.
On Varadero beach.
Trinidad was also close to another white sandy beach where we spent two afternoons. It is where we did a scuba dive. We sat and had a lesson to recap on our diving theory. Nick and Pete then paddled around in the water at the beach to practise breathing through a regulator before we got on the boat and motored to the site of a reef which had lots of brightly coloured fish and coral to see. All of us really enjoyed it and I think it was one of the nicest dives I have done. Not deep but beautiful scenery you couldn't fully appreciate with a snorkel.
An average street scene in Trinidad.
Again we stayed in a Casa in Trinidad that we had booked whilst at the hotel in Varadero. However when we had got off the bus there had been about 30 people holding up placards with pictures of their houses asking us to come and stay with them. We therefore decided that we would risk not booking our accommodation for our next stop and just find some when we arrived. It seemed an ok plan but when we came to pay for our Casa the lady asked us where we were going next. When we told her Vinales she of course said she had a friend there with a Casa and she would find out if there was space. Of course there was.
We hired a taxi to take us to Vinales. However the journey was eventful. We got stopped by the police because it seems the taxi driver was not insured to drive tourists in his hired car. Of course he just paid off the policeman like it was routine. As we neared Havana the taxi stopped again and another guy with a jeep and an American accent pulled up next to us. The story went that there was something wrong with the car so the driver had arranged for someone else to take us onto Vinales. In reality I think they wanted to save time and take the extra passenger we had with us straight into Havana rather than taking him to Vinales and back again.The advantage was our new driver turned out to be an English speaking journalist from Argentina and gave us an interesting insight to the way the country works from the point of view of a foreigner who had lived there ten years.
Vinales was a world away from anything else we had seen so far in Cuba. It is a town in the west of the country set amongst a lush, green, hilly landscape that is home to tobacco farming and is famous for its cigar manufacture. When we arrived we discovered we were in fact staying in three separate houses. One owned by an older couple. One owned by the mans sister set in his front garden and one by their friends across the road. Certainly for James and I it was the nicest place we stayed and the family were incredibly friendly. The man taught us how to play dominos, suggested day trips to us and helped us organise them. Whilst in Vinales we spent an afternoon wandering around the tiny town. The next day we went on a really long walk to the uninspiring visitors center and giant mural painted onto the side of a hill. We then caught a taxi to see what we thought was a big cave with a subterranean river at the bottom. We later found we were mistaken about its scale when we were advised to see a different cave the next day.
Our last full day in Cuba we saw some of the most spectacular scenery of the holiday. We had hired a taxi (old American car) for the day which all five of us fitted into due to the two bench seats rather than the normal 5 seats you would usually get in a car. We drove initially to the entrance of one of the biggest cave networks in the Northen hemisphere. However it hadn't yet opened so the cab driver went and had a chat to the guides and advised us to come back later. In the mean time we drove to the most stunning beach I have ever been on. Crystal clear blue water, fine white sand and a large amount of sea silvered tree branches laying all over the beach. As so few tourists know about the beach we had a whole stretch entirely to ourselves for the 4 hours we spent there. Just beautiful. We then packed up and went back to see the caves.
Strangely we stopped once again at the side of the road and a guy ran out of his house and jumped into the taxi with us. Turned out he was the brother of the guide. I am not entirely sure how official the tour of the cave was but our guide appeared to be very knowledgeable. We left the taxi at the side of the road and walked through a small wooded area. We then crossed two fields growing vegetables, over two low barbed wire fences and the up a mini mountain to the mouth of the cave. It did cross my mind, what if we are kidnapped? The cave though was well worth it. Enormous is an understatement. Quite literally cavernous. The route to it meant it was rarely seen by anyone other than locals and a hand full of tourists who were as crazy as us. We were given head torches and then entered to explore the glittering stalactites and stalagmites within the 500m we explored. With the beach and cave it must have been my favourite day of the holiday.
Our taxi to the beach and cave.
As always two weeks goes too quickly and we had to arrange getting back to the airport. Instead of getting a traditional taxi car we thought a minibus would be a more sensible option for the 90 minute journey. We arranged for it to collect us in plenty of time to get to the airport. Of course it ran on Cuban time and was 30 minutes late collecting us so a man from the taxi company came to reassure us it was on the way. When it arrived our faces must have been a picture. It was a minibus of sorts. A lime green old school car that had an extra door and extra row of seats. It was the most clunky looking American car we had seen. We held our breath whilst winding round all the hills on our way out of Vinales because the tires screeched with each turn as they rubbed on the wheel arches. We were not convinced we would make it to the airport until we actually arrived at which point the driver gave us a very smug look and laughed at us. It was a hilarious, though could have been a disastrous end to the holiday.
Although some would it think an unusual choice I think Cuba is the most fascinating place I have ever been. I am very grateful I went with a group of people who like to travel around a place and see as much as they can rather than just sit on a beach for two weeks. I am also very glad that Nick came. As our Spanish speaking representative he warned us he was very rusty and only spoke a little Spanish. Actually he was being very modest and was fluent which made the whole holiday much easier to organise and navigate. I would certainly recommend a visit to Cuba and would love to return if and when the government changes to see what happens to the country. The only really disapointing part was the lack of a stamp at the airport for my brand new passport. 




